Audio Repairs Dorset repairs hi-fi amplifiers, valve amps, guitar amps, power amps, subwoofers, active speakers and CD players for listeners and musicians across the county. Call, tell us the make, the model and what it is doing, and we will take it from there.
At a glance
Stereo and PA power amps that go into protect, run hot or lose a channel. A failing power amp can damage the speakers it drives, so switch it off and give us a call.
Common faults
Integrated and stereo amplifiers from Marantz, Denon, Yamaha, NAD, Arcam, Technics and more. If yours crackles, hums or has lost a channel, it is worth a look before it gets worse.
Common faults
Valve amplifiers for hi-fi and for guitar, handled with the care their high voltages call for. Please leave the case shut and tell us what you are seeing instead.
Common faults
Combos and heads that get carried to rehearsals, loaded into cars and played loud for hours. Jacks loosen, controls get noisy and joints crack: that is what we sort out.
Common faults
Powered subwoofers have their own amplifier built in, so a fault can be in the electronics or the driver. Describe the sound when you call: it tells us a lot.
Common faults
Powered speakers and studio monitors, including ADAM Audio and Mackie, with the amplifier inside the cabinet. If one of a pair has gone quiet, swap them over first to see where the fault is.
Common faults
CD players that skip, will not read a disc or have a tray that will not budge. Tell us the make, the model and what the display says when you ring.
Common faults
From the amplifier at the heart of a hi-fi to the combo at the back of the stage, these are the things we fix. Choose one to see the faults worth getting looked at, or read about amp repairs in one place.
Hi-fi amplifiersStereo and integrated amplifiers that hum, crackle, lose a channel or will not power up.
Hi-fi amplifiers repairs
Valve ampsValve amplifiers for hi-fi and guitar, handled with the care their high voltages call for.
Valve amps repairs
Guitar ampsCombos and heads that cut out, crackle, hum or have simply stopped making a sound.
Guitar amps repairs
Power ampsStereo and PA power amplifiers that shut down, run hot or lose a channel.
Power amps repairs
SubwoofersPowered subwoofers with no bass, a constant hum, a rattle or an auto-on that no longer works.
Subwoofers repairs
Active speakersPowered speakers and studio monitors, including ADAM Audio and Mackie, that hiss, crackle or go silent.
Active speakers repairs
CD playersCD players that skip, will not read discs, show No Disc or have a tray that will not open.
CD players repairs
Pick your equipment, then the symptom. It is no substitute for a proper look, but it shows why a fault is worth a call, and what to tell us when you ring.
What it often points to: Usually a dirty or worn volume control. It tends to get worse, so it is worth sorting early.
What it often points to: Can be a cracked solder joint, a tired relay contact or a failing part in that channel.
What it often points to: Often ageing power supply capacitors, or an earthing fault somewhere in the system.
What it often points to: The protection circuit has spotted a fault and is keeping your speakers safe. Leave it off.
What it often points to: The valve may have failed, or something is stopping it getting power. Keep the case shut.
What it often points to: Valves get noisier as they age, though power supply parts can cause hum too.
What it often points to: Something is drawing too much current, sometimes a failing valve. Never fit a bigger fuse.
What it often points to: Can point to a tired valve, or a part whose value drifts as it heats up.
What it often points to: Often a loose input or speaker jack, or a cracked joint from being carried about.
What it often points to: Dirty or worn controls and sockets: common on amps that get gigged and moved.
What it often points to: Can be an earthing problem, a noisy valve or ageing filter capacitors.
What it often points to: Could be a fuse, a speaker connection or a fault in the output stage. Switch it off.
What it often points to: The amp has detected a fault, either at its outputs or with the speakers connected.
What it often points to: Often a cooling problem, such as a stuck fan or built-up dust, or an output stage fault.
What it often points to: Fans wear out, and a stopped fan can let the amp overheat, so it is safer to stop using it.
What it often points to: A failing part in that channel, or a connection inside that has worked loose.
What it often points to: Usually the built-in amplifier, or the signal not reaching it. Check the lead first.
What it often points to: Often an earthing issue between the sub and the rest of the system, or an ageing amp part.
What it often points to: Usually the driver, such as a damaged surround, or something loose in the cabinet.
What it often points to: The part of the sub’s amplifier that senses a signal may have stopped working.
What it often points to: Often the built-in amplifier or its input stage. Swap the pair over to check.
What it often points to: Can be the amplifier’s input stage, or noisy controls on the back panel.
What it often points to: The protection circuit may be tripping, often from heat or a failing part.
What it often points to: Could be the fuse or the power supply board inside the speaker.
What it often points to: Often a dirty or weakening laser, or a worn mechanism that moves it.
What it often points to: The laser is not reading the disc: it may be dirty, worn or out of adjustment.
What it often points to: Usually a worn drive belt or a sticking tray mechanism.
What it often points to: Often the laser struggling to focus, or the mechanism not moving it across.
Three of the repairs people across Dorset come to us for. If yours is something else on our list, the same applies: call and describe it.
Integrated amps, stereo amplifiers and hi-fi separates from Marantz, Denon, Yamaha, NAD, Arcam and more. If yours crackles, hums or has lost a channel, we can take a look.
More about hi-fi amp repair
Combos and heads that have gone quiet, cut out mid-set or crackle every time a control moves. Valve guitar amps are part of the job too.
More about guitar amp repair
Players that skip, refuse to read a disc, flash No Disc or have a tray that will not budge. Tell us what the display says and we will go from there.
More about CD player repair
Valve amplifiers, for hi-fi and for guitar, run at voltages far higher than most home electronics. Even switched off and unplugged, the capacitors inside can hold a charge that is dangerous to touch.
So if a valve has stopped glowing, a fuse keeps going or the sound has started to fade, leave the case closed and tell us what you are seeing.
We are based on Wallisdown Road in Bournemouth and cover the whole of Dorset, from the towns around Poole Harbour to the market towns of the north and the coast to the west. These are some of the places with their own page.
What people tend to ask before they call about their amp, speaker or CD player.
We repair hi-fi amplifiers, valve amps, guitar amps, power amps, subwoofers, active speakers and CD players. If you have something else that makes a sound, ask: the quickest way to find out is a call to 07900 785 284.
Makes we work on include ADAM Audio, Mackie, Marantz, Bang & Olufsen, Sony, Denon, Yamaha, NAD, Arcam and Technics, to name some. If yours is not on that list, get in touch anyway.
Yes, valve amps are one of the things we repair, for hi-fi and for guitar. Please do not open one up yourself: the capacitors inside can hold a dangerous charge after the amp is switched off and unplugged.
Yes. Guitar amps sit on our list alongside hi-fi amplifiers, power amps, active speakers and subwoofers, so the same people can look at the amp in your lounge and the combo in your practice room.
CD players are one of the things we repair. When you get in touch, tell us the make and model, what the display shows and whether it happens with every disc or only some.
Yes. We are based on Wallisdown Road in Bournemouth and cover the whole county, from Poole and Christchurch to Weymouth, Dorchester, Bridport and Sherborne. If you are not sure whether we cover you, call and ask.
The make and model, what the fault is and when it started. Anything you have already tried, and what the equipment is connected to, helps too. The model is usually printed on a label on the back.
The safest move is to stop using it. A failing amplifier can damage the speakers connected to it, and a small fault can turn into a bigger one if the amp is left running. Switch it off and get in touch.
Give us a ring, tell us the make, the model and the fault, and we will take it from there.
